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Sabroso - Winter2008
COOK'S MARKETPLACE
By Jillian A. Mills
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If we used milk instead of water and if the mixture contained microscopic dehydrated marshmallows, well then, we considered ourselves to be very gourmet. The kettle on the stove would sing and a thrill would rise in our little bodies. Carefully, we’d pour the water (or milk) into our cups and the magic powder in the bottom would rush to the top. We’d set the kettle aside with cautioned haste since we didn’t want Mom to have a reason to give us the “Be careful, it’s hot!” lecture. Anxiously we’d grapple for the spoon and begin swirling the ingredients together. We’d then blow on the liquid’s surface and, despite our care in doing so, usually burn our tongues at least once because we simply couldn’t wait to partake of this absolute delicacy.
Though memories of powdered cocoa mix likely have a place in the hearts of many, few of us appreciate – like we used to – the merits of such a simple beverage. While our palettes may be more refined, we are not above improving on a good idea. And I think we can all agree: liquid chocolate…good idea! Because our readers are so discriminating, we at ¡Sabroso! magazine wanted to find the best darn hot chocolate recipe we could to share with you for your wintertime enjoyment. We pored over recipes, bought ingredients, mixed, heated, stirred and sampled until finally, we found one that surpassed every expectation we had. Yes, at last, we laid our hands on the drinking chocolate that has to be tried to be truly appreciated.
Jonathan Bowden, pastry chef for the Greenery Restaurant and Market in El Paso, sparked the idea. I said, “Chocolate.” And he said, “Scharffen Berger.” (If you can’t pronounce it, it’s OK.) So, why is it worth your time to seek out this particular chocolate rather than buying whatever happens to be on sale? Well, truthfully, there are several factors that raise Scharffen Berger chocolate to a quality level above and beyond many other chocolates.
First, Scharffen Berger is a “chocolate maker.” This means they start with raw product, in the form of cacao beans, where as many chocolate companies buy chocolate liquor to make their chocolates. They go a step further by purchasing only fermented beans, which is a process that greatly enhances the flavor of the finished
products. The beans are roasted and blended in small batches with no detail overlooked. Scharffen Berger even goes the extra mile when it comes to the ingredients they add to their chocolates. For example, they use whole vanilla beans from Madagascar and Tahiti, which is almost an unheard of practice in the industry of chocolate manufacturing.
The thing to remember is you get what you pay for. Yes, you can substitute a different chocolate in this recipe and come up with a pleasing result. But, just as hamburger and filet mignon are both technically beef, many would argue there is a difference. We decided if we were going to recommend this to you, we should put our money where our mouths were and we actually tried the recipe with Scharffen Berger and with another baking chocolate. The difference is distinct and lies much in the consistency. Scharffen Berger creates a creamier, more luxurious result. (And get on that treadmill for 20 minutes so you can use whole milk; anything less than whole milk will also affect the finished product considerably.) So, if you are looking for a way to make your holiday treats a little more extravagant this year, you won’t go wrong with this fabulous line of chocolates. From their chocolate bars and confections like chocolate dipped crystallized ginger to their baking bars and cocoa powders, this is some of the best tasting chocolate available.
Another thing that made this recipe a favorite among our editorial staff was the option of spices. Cinnamon and cayenne pepper pair superbly with the rich chocolate used to enhance its flavor and make it a truly decadent experience.
Scharffen Berger Chocolates may be purchased at the Greenery Market in El Paso, Las Cosas and Toucan Market in Las Cruces or directly from the company at: www.scharffenberger.com. The recipe and images featured here are courtesy of The Essence of Chocolate: Recipes for Baking and Cooking with Fine Chocolate, by John Scharffenberger and Robert Steinberg (Hyperion, 2006).
John’s Classic Drinking Chocolate
• 2 1⁄2 cups whole milk
• 4 oz 99 percent unsweetened chocolate,
• coarsely chopped
• 1⁄3 cup granulated sugar
• 11⁄2 tsp pure vanilla extract
• 3⁄4 tsp ground cinnamon (optional)
• 1⁄8 tsp cayenne pepper (optional)
Heat the milk in a medium saucepan over medium heat until it is hot to the touch. Whisk in the chocolate and sugar and continue whisking for 1 to 2 minutes until the sugar has dissolved. Whisk in the vanilla and the cinnamon and cayenne (optional). Reduce the heat to low. The chocolate may be made ahead; it will thicken as it sits.
Serve in demitasse cups or mugs, depending on desired portion. |
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