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Sabroso - Winter2008
WINE BUYS
By Bobby Lee Lawrence
Photography by Marty Snortum Studio
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About this time every year,
I reflect on all the wines profiled over the past 365 days. Hopefully, the ones I wrote about and recommended to you, the readers, met your satisfaction. I have always maintained that everyone’s taste is different, so I based my “Best Values of 2007” on your feedback. The list takes into consideration quality as well as price. The two criteria are not always synonymous; I have tasted some expensive bottles of wine that did not excite me, and have also tasted some inexpensive bottles that were excellent. Keeping this in mind, here are the best of the best from the past year.
1. One of my favorites turns out to be a varietal becoming very popular in the U.S. Malbec, a common choice in South America, has taken the wine drinkers here by storm. This blending grape from Bordeaux has been elevated to the level of a fine wine. Driven by the influx of capital and wine production expertise from North America and Europe, South American wines have improved dramatically. Here is my choice for the best Malbec of 2007: 2005 Kaiken Ultra Malbec, priced at under $20, it drinks like a wine three times the price. Named after a Patagonian goose that lives on both sides of the Andes, it mirrors its winemaker, Aurelio Montes, who also lives on both sides of the Andes. Look for aromas of plum, licorice and cassis with a long, bitter chocolate finish. This is a flat-out bargain.
2. My Shiraz pick was an enjoyable task. Being a fan of Shiraz, I have consumed many of the good ones. Although it was not an easy decision, here is my
vote for the best Shiraz of the year: Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate gave 2005 2 UP Shiraz 90 points, and it is well deserved. The winemaker, Kevin O’Brien, has created this excellent wine from McLaren Vale’s Kangarilla Road Estate. The color is deep ruby with a purple tinge and offers aromas of blackberries, figs, plums and kirsch. This Shiraz is full bodied and has a terrific long finish. It is drinkable now, and will cellar well for two to three years.
3. Summer is always a great time to drink chilled whites. With all of the hot weather and Southwestern cuisine in our area, a Sauvignon Blanc really fits the bill. I picked this one because of its clean, non-oaky overall style. It was a great summertime sipper, as well as a good choice with meals. I selected the 2005 Hall Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc for its overall allure. Keeping in mind that the first “duty” of a Sauvignon Blanc is to have acidity dryness, this wine does just that. Its refreshing tartness has flavors of lime, melon and green apple. In the finish you will taste hints of grapefruit. I really loved this wine. With no oak at all it has the varietal signature you should expect in a classic Sauvignon Blanc.
4. Of all the great Cabernets out there, it was difficult to pick the best of class. Many Cabernets are blended with a percentage of other wines such as Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, etc. The 2004 L’Ecole 41 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley is made from 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon with some of the grapes coming from vines over 20 years old. This is a classic varietal Cabernet signature with aromas of blackberry, cassis and leather. Its flavors are complex, but ripe plum, bittersweet chocolate and blackberry show through. The finish is long and spicy with controlled tannins. With ageing done over 22 months, it is well ready to drink now, but will also hold up for many years to come. You’ll love this one!
5. Lately, Chardonnay has lost a lot of its appeal. With the increased numbers of new and different wines on the market, consumers are always looking for the latest fad, but there’s still that core of Chardonnay fans that enjoy a great white wine. A couple of years ago, I was privileged to spend some time with Walter Shug of Shug Winery in Sonoma, California. I was impressed with this dedicated winemaker’s talent and his passion for quality. Over the years I have followed his winery’s releases and now it’s producing award-wnning Chardonnays. So here is my choice of the year: 2005 Schug Carneros Estate Chardonnay. The Carneros district has a cool climate that is excellent for growing Chardonnay grapes. The winemaker produced this wine in the European tradition of barrel fermentation. It was aged “sur-lie,” literally translated from the French as “on lees,” the yeasty residue remaining in the cask after fermentation. Bottling from “lees” without filtering gives the wine added freshness and creaminess and made this wine an award winner. Flavors of citrus, pear and apple butter are up front in the wine. It’s crisp and clean, making it an excellent wine to pair with seafood, fowl and pasta.
6. I would be remiss if I didn’t pick a local wine for wine of the year. As a big fan of Luna Rossa Winery and the winemaker Paolo D’Andrea, I continue to be impressed with the quality of his releases. The wines have garnered many awards this past year and rightfully deserved. My selection from this winery is their Nini, a red wine made from four Italian varietals and blended to perfection. Don’t miss this one paired with any Italian or spicy Southwestern dish.
So, until next year enjoy the fruit of the gods and remember, there is no friend like a good friend, except a good friend with wine.
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